Tribe.net. Local Connections Bruce http://geodesicdomes.tribe.net/thread/9f23c211-34de-4ca4-822c-4c4d5f409e78#8ce90360-0b2c-43e3-8433-e835f06b29ea 2009-08-06T08:55:30Z 2009-08-06T08:55:30Z

>If the air between the two layers gets hot, you should just need good ventilation at the top of each "air pocket". Sure, if you can get the air to move fast enough to offset the effect of a big blob of hot air radiating heat at you. That's what I meant by the top layer being permeable to the air-- you have to let the hot air out. Bruce :-)

Bruce 2009-08-06T08:55:30Z Ash of the Dark http://geodesicdomes.tribe.net/thread/9f23c211-34de-4ca4-822c-4c4d5f409e78#8750d895-3e75-4263-a23f-a80f536421ba 2009-07-30T02:42:36Z 2009-07-30T02:42:36Z

Okay, here y'are: http://people.tribe.net/corbindallas/photos/17c9af3b-d9c8-4e61-bf95-b21376bae908 This is the most recent shot of the truncated pyramid structure as it is now. A little fine-tuning is in order (sanding and staining some more struts), but it's just about ready for the playa. Other photos detailing the mitering process, assembly, and billboard vinyl skin are posted in my profile, next to this one.

Ash of the Dark 2009-07-30T02:42:36Z Ash of the Dark http://geodesicdomes.tribe.net/thread/9f23c211-34de-4ca4-822c-4c4d5f409e78#8ad3f8f3-75cf-4a39-a1fa-c83184fddccd 2009-07-23T00:03:19Z 2009-07-23T00:03:19Z

Certainly! Very soon, I shall have photos. I've got some of preliminary builds, but I want to get some real good ones before I submit them on here.

Ash of the Dark 2009-07-23T00:03:19Z Adam http://geodesicdomes.tribe.net/thread/9f23c211-34de-4ca4-822c-4c4d5f409e78#59bc4e7b-0d2b-4146-810a-e7ae334951c6 2009-07-22T20:47:45Z 2009-07-22T20:47:45Z

*bump* Ash, any updates? Any photos?

Adam 2009-07-22T20:47:45Z Adam http://geodesicdomes.tribe.net/thread/9f23c211-34de-4ca4-822c-4c4d5f409e78#de531c23-823d-454a-b229-c2abf84da272 2009-05-26T00:28:09Z 2009-05-26T00:28:09Z

Bruce: > With the two layers, you want to avoid heat build up between the layers. I haven't worked with BB vinyl, but if much sun gets through (ie you can see the shadow of someone standing outside) then there will be a big buildup of infrared radiation under that layer. If that layer is not permeable to the air, then the air inside just keeps soaking up infrared and getting hotter. Not necessarily. If the air between the two layers gets hot, you should just need good ventilation at the top of each "air pocket". The hot air will create an upwards draft, and the heat will expel itself. It could actually create a cooling effect. Two layers of vinyl does sound like overkill for burningman though. Instead of cross ventilation, what about a simple swamp cooler? They're awesome. P.S. If you're interested in a highly detailed, and technical view of architecture and cooling design, I just found this amazing site. "Architectural thermodynamics and human comfort in hot climates" http://www.unu.edu/unupress/unupbooks/80a01e/80A01E00.htm#Contents Here's one little fascinating note: "In the Arab house, the fountain plays a role equivalent to the fireplace in the temperate zones, although one is used for cooling and the other for heating." It makes sense, but I never thought of the central fountain that is so omnipresent in Arabic architecture as little more than decorative.

Adam 2009-05-26T00:28:09Z Bruce http://geodesicdomes.tribe.net/thread/9f23c211-34de-4ca4-822c-4c4d5f409e78#b49f61df-6e6b-40c6-98f6-9db7f94d9cbd 2009-05-25T07:13:26Z 2009-05-25T07:13:26Z

>I hadn’t thought about how to do the cross-ventilation, but I figure I can keep it simple by adding a rear door, just like the front, which can be opened if necessary, but secured if necessary as well. I was planning on sewing a cloth interior to go on the inside of all walls for a bit of added insulation and dust trapping. With that in mind, do you still recommend adding extra tyvek or shade cloth to the top and sides? Regarding air escaping the top, I can’t seem to figure a good way to incorporate a flap or vent in the roof’s vinyl that won’t be subject to the wind. Our starplate dome last year had slight gaps where the vinyl was bungee-balled to the 2x4 struts, which allowed hot air to escape, but any desired heat was out as soon as the sun went down, and well, I’m just happy we didn’t have rain last year. Most likely, I’ll use snap-buttons for a flap on the inner cloth membrane. Though not watertight, do you think snaps are the way to go for the vinyl, as well? Hi Ash, I wouldn't worry tooo much about rain at bm... non watertight snaps seem just fine. With the two layers, you want to avoid heat build up between the layers. I haven't worked with BB vinyl, but if much sun gets through (ie you can see the shadow of someone standing outside) then there will be a big buildup of infrared radiation under that layer. If that layer is not permeable to the air, then the air inside just keeps soaking up infrared and getting hotter. Of course 95% or whatever of the folks at BM don't fuss with double layers, and it's all good, and certainly fabric on the inside will help, but... I remember being in heebeegeebees and examining how they did the double layer exactly wrong. They had nylon, maybe parachute material, as an outer layer. Not air permeable. Then below that, as what looked like a later modification, they had a layer of tyvek with holes. It did help keep cool in the shadow of the tyvek, but it would have been much more effective if the tyvek was outside the nylon, so no hot air buildup between layers. Your cross ventilation sounds excellent... with a flap up top you should be fine, even if you don't maximize the effectiveness of your layers :-)

Bruce 2009-05-25T07:13:26Z Adam http://geodesicdomes.tribe.net/thread/9f23c211-34de-4ca4-822c-4c4d5f409e78#73b35872-5eac-45a8-9949-c68617c9e19c 2009-05-11T01:45:26Z 2009-05-11T01:45:26Z

Ash: Since I want to build a pyramid of my own someday, I've been thinking about the corner joint problem quite a bit since you first brought it up. I can't imagine that you'd want to use wood nails for any structure you want to take down and rebuild. Using bolts to hold the struts in place would almost certainly work, but I don't particularly like that solution. I can't pinpoint why, but I think it's just the loss of symmetry since the bolt holes would have to be offset from one another. Ignore me here, I think I'm just being too much of a purist with a lust for a beautiful design over a function one. But two other ideas to consider. 1) Simply lash the sides and strut together using cable ties. Give it a shot. I think it'll actually be more than strong enough, and if it is you're done. 2) You could also fashion metal L-brackets to hold the sides together. With the L-brackets you wouldn't even need the struts. P.S. Thanks for the tips of sketchup. I'm starting to get the hang of it, but I'm not quite there yet. > According to Pythagoras, if I install a diagonal roof beam that’s 3 inches longer than that, I will have a peak of about 15cm. How about if I use 1.5” dowels at the appropriate lengths with screw eyes at both ends, to be attached at the roof corners and peak? Drilling holes all the way down each dowel would allow me to run paracord through them, like a spiderweb, or god’s eye. Are you sure you wouldn't prefer just buying 8 additional 2x2s and having a full pyramid? :-)

Adam 2009-05-11T01:45:26Z Ash of the Dark http://geodesicdomes.tribe.net/thread/9f23c211-34de-4ca4-822c-4c4d5f409e78#dd6e939d-f61e-490d-8061-bc2a8dee4f3c 2009-05-10T16:13:02Z 2009-05-10T16:13:02Z

Please excuse the length of this post – you’ve all posted such awesome ideas and important questions, I want to make sure I address them all. Bruce, I hadn’t thought about how to do the cross-ventilation, but I figure I can keep it simple by adding a rear door, just like the front, which can be opened if necessary, but secured if necessary as well. I was planning on sewing a cloth interior to go on the inside of all walls for a bit of added insulation and dust trapping. With that in mind, do you still recommend adding extra tyvek or shade cloth to the top and sides? Regarding air escaping the top, I can’t seem to figure a good way to incorporate a flap or vent in the roof’s vinyl that won’t be subject to the wind. Our starplate dome last year had slight gaps where the vinyl was bungee-balled to the 2x4 struts, which allowed hot air to escape, but any desired heat was out as soon as the sun went down, and well, I’m just happy we didn’t have rain last year. Most likely, I’ll use snap-buttons for a flap on the inner cloth membrane. Though not watertight, do you think snaps are the way to go for the vinyl, as well? Briggi, I think peaking the roof is a great idea, that won’t have me worrying if I am far from the structure during a freak rain. 15cm of peak shouldn’t ruin the effect of truncation at all. And I like the idea of reinforcing like a spiderweb. Here’s what I’m envisioning: From the center point of the roof to one of the corners is a distance of 5’8”. According to Pythagoras, if I install a diagonal roof beam that’s 3 inches longer than that, I will have a peak of about 15cm. How about if I use 1.5” dowels at the appropriate lengths with screw eyes at both ends, to be attached at the roof corners and peak? Drilling holes all the way down each dowel would allow me to run paracord through them, like a spiderweb, or god’s eye. As for pointy stuff rubbing the vinyl raw, I plan on taping over the bolt heads. Anything really sharp will have some felt taped over it. Securing the rooftop down with extra rope and stakes sounds great, as I love any excuse to further guy a structure down. Adam, I think you’re right about three holes/bolts being overkill. A new design incorporates two holes, 6 inches apart from eachother, in the struts and connector plates. When I put our starplate dome together, the struts had only a single bolt on each side, and it was totally solid. Regarding the gap-filling strut, I plan to take 2x2’s, bevel 10 degrees off two sides (to give them the profile of a diamond) so they fit nicely in the gaps, and then secure them using long wood screws. Here is the sketch of the gap-filling struts: http://people.tribe.net/corbindallas/photos/e91b94be-cf38-4f79-bab4-0681dbab5994 They are the struts colored slightly darker than the rest. The filler is on the outside, though, because that’s where the gap revealed itself. I figure if I insert a wood screw from the inside edge of a wall frame piece to bite into the filling strut, and repeat a few times for each of the two adjoining walls, the strut should stay in place, and keep the walls secure at a 90 degree angle. Conversely, I could just pre-drill holes at the appropriate spots, and bolt the filling struts to the adjoining walls. Lots of bolts and nuts. I plan to take a socket wrench out there with me. Hell, I’ll take a spare socket wrench out there! As far as tips and tricks for using sketchup, I’d only advise you to tinker around with it, designing whatever you’ve been dreaming about, and learning about the program’s tools along the way. What I have found most helpful in designing this structure is the following: - use of the component tool: when you make ‘components’, you can duplicate them, rotate them, snap them to perfect alignment with other components, etc. In general (unless you use the “make unique” option) you can make changes to a single component even after incorporating a multitude of them in your project, and those changes will be replicated in all the components in your project. An example of this would be deleting bolt holes on the connector plates. I selected a single connector plate, made the changes, and the changes were replicated in all similar connector plates automatically. - Rotation: when you make a component, you can rotate it to a specific degree measurement (a protractor will appear). This is especially useful when making pyramid-type structures. - Protractor: great for creating guidelines (dotted lines) to a specific degree measurement. - Use of the ‘shift’ key: In using protractor and rotation, the plane of rotation has to be selected first. Sometimes, it’s difficult to get a lock on the plane you want. You can move the cursor (protractor image, when the feature is selected) to another part of the structure or screen until the protractor image displays the plane you want. Hold down the shift key, move the cursor over to the area you want to rotate, and you will rotate on the desired axis. Those are just a few of the things I had to find out on my own, but that saved sooo much time when I started using them. I’m always learning new stuff though, and there are tutorials online for specific questions/problems. Shadoan also mentioned here that he could help with Sketchup modeling. I would also be happy to help with any experiences I have had so far with it. Thank you again, Shadoan, for recommending Skethcup in the first place! ~Ash

Ash of the Dark 2009-05-10T16:13:02Z Adam http://geodesicdomes.tribe.net/thread/9f23c211-34de-4ca4-822c-4c4d5f409e78#31c23114-0bf0-4f2b-a448-8cd0d8c064e6 2009-05-08T06:31:16Z 2009-05-08T06:31:16Z

Ash: First a couple of suggestions that might save you quite a bit of labor. Three bolts for each board on the connector seems like a bit of overkill. I believe third bolt (someone correct me if I'm wrong) will only give a small amount of added strength over two bolts. 56 less bolt holes will save you quite a bit of time in construction and setup. Secondly, what happens if you don't miter the ends of the boards? The board ends won't meet nicely, but I don't think that adds any structural strength. And visually it will be hidden away behind the connectors. So, you might want to consider not mitering the ends (even though you have a new tool to play with). 2 cents on that. As for connecting the sides, in my last post I missed the fact that they won't match up nicely. You're absolutely right that something will have to be done there. A few questions there. How are you planning on connecting the "gap filler" board to the structure? How are you planning on connecting the sides together? And finally, since the force is inward, did you consider putting that "gap filler" board on the inside of the corner instead of the outside? As for sketchup, after I saw your first picture I did a quick search for "CAD Freeware". I had already downloaded and tried it, but it seems there's a bit of a learning curve. Unless you work for google, and are actively pimping your products, then no one here is going to accuse you of spam. I'd actually guess that a number of people in here would be very interested in tools used to design structures. Do you have any tips or tricks to using it?

Adam 2009-05-08T06:31:16Z Adam http://geodesicdomes.tribe.net/thread/9f23c211-34de-4ca4-822c-4c4d5f409e78#0a2a3173-cf6a-4a1c-a9db-0b7b076b33a3 2009-05-08T06:16:33Z 2009-05-08T06:16:33Z

Shadoan: Thanks, that's awesome.

Adam 2009-05-08T06:16:33Z Briggi http://geodesicdomes.tribe.net/thread/9f23c211-34de-4ca4-822c-4c4d5f409e78#3f180c3d-630c-492b-b238-8730d65543cc 2009-05-08T04:40:02Z 2009-05-08T04:40:02Z

In practice, rope stretches, no matter how tightly it's tied at first. Then it'll sag ever so slightly, ...then even more when it takes a load. I will suggest, at very least, a criss-cross hard roof frame, imperceptibly peaked (15cm) at center. This means four frame pieces depending from the corners, meeting at center. And from this have concentric parachute cord rigged as further support... about every two feet. The roofing looking something like a squared off spiderweb. That's to allow some drainage. Not to spoil the troncated effect, but depending on how rainy it ever gets, maybe even a higher center peak needs to be considered. As to wind, a few lines thrown over the covering and staked to the floor, will help secure the roof membrane from balooning or undulating itself off. Any protruding hardware, such as hookeyes & hex bolt heads, is going to work against the covering with slight but constant rubbing motion, thus wearing & tearing holes into it. Sharp pointy protrusions need to be countersunk, or taped, or padded.... or avoided. So you'll have it up and running. In the doing we'll see if it flies.

Briggi 2009-05-08T04:40:02Z Bruce http://geodesicdomes.tribe.net/thread/9f23c211-34de-4ca4-822c-4c4d5f409e78#f3a8f3aa-55ee-4e01-abbe-1c5e354bf983 2009-05-08T04:29:45Z 2009-05-08T04:29:45Z

RE puddling and using rope criss cross to prevent... Be careful about putting too much tension on the opposing corners of a square during construction. The tension will want to be reasonably well balanced or you might have problems collapsing the square, and, though it may be there, I am unable to see anything structurally that really directly opposes this tension. OTOH I think diagonal rope or wire (stretches less) on the sides is a lovely way to solve the original weak spot of the top square rotating vs. the bottom square. Really depends on what material you prefer working with. Lovely sketches btw... With all the work going into it at this stage I think you will have a nice rock solid structure out on the playa. To keep it cooler during the day, you may want to consider putting a second non-airtight layer (horticultural shade cloth, aluminet, swedish tyvek snow tarp, etc) of stuff on the roof and the South side of the structure, possibly the east and west sides too. Also for coolness allow for air to escape out the very top, and provide for cross ventilation with openings on 2 opposing sides of the cover. Bruce :-)

Bruce 2009-05-08T04:29:45Z Ash of the Dark http://geodesicdomes.tribe.net/thread/9f23c211-34de-4ca4-822c-4c4d5f409e78#c2abca22-ead4-4ab5-9d78-678d9c491543 2009-05-08T01:42:01Z 2009-05-08T01:42:01Z

I want some stainless steel floating platform module struts!

Ash of the Dark 2009-05-08T01:42:01Z Ash of the Dark http://geodesicdomes.tribe.net/thread/9f23c211-34de-4ca4-822c-4c4d5f409e78#42317227-d579-4018-a48e-456f41f753f8 2009-05-08T01:37:28Z 2009-05-08T01:37:28Z

Briggi, To support the roof vinyl, and prevent puddling, the only thing I could think to do was use a screw-eye at the top of the corner brace struts, and tie rope from one top corner to the other, in a criss-cross fashion. http://people.tribe.net/corbindallas/photos/dca31eb6-c51f-4e97-9783-62f9f26a6581 Not sure if this will work, since I've never tried it before. For attaching vinyl to the frame, I plan to grommet the edges every foot and a half, and use bungee balls. Once the vinyl is in place, I'll duct tape the seams at the edges, so the wind/light/dust doesn't get in. I just got my very own little craftsman miter, and can't wait to start using it on this. :)

Ash of the Dark 2009-05-08T01:37:28Z Briggi http://geodesicdomes.tribe.net/thread/9f23c211-34de-4ca4-822c-4c4d5f409e78#ef8616c9-9ffe-44c6-81ba-d45f658b30e2 2009-05-07T23:15:01Z 2009-05-07T23:15:01Z

The second design appears more sturdy with its trapezoidal gusset plates and corner joined structral members, than the first. 2 questions: -What's the plan for a roof structure, to prevent puddling -attachment method detail for billboard vinyl cladding Looks totally doable. I hope you'll have a good miter saw around.

Briggi 2009-05-07T23:15:01Z Shadoan http://geodesicdomes.tribe.net/thread/9f23c211-34de-4ca4-822c-4c4d5f409e78#a0669588-6998-4cf2-a847-33a318c3eafb 2009-05-07T21:31:37Z 2009-05-07T21:31:37Z

http://www.n55.dk/MANUALS/FLOAT_PLAT/FLOAT_PLAT.html

Shadoan 2009-05-07T21:31:37Z Ash of the Dark http://geodesicdomes.tribe.net/thread/9f23c211-34de-4ca4-822c-4c4d5f409e78#fc0d3cd4-e744-47a9-9dd2-1e3077ffc768 2009-05-07T16:51:54Z 2009-05-07T16:51:54Z

Adam, You're right. Using T-braces was my way of trying to conserve 2x2's and have less to transport. But by using just 4 additional struts and creating solid triangles in the frame (rather than simulating them with rope), the overall integrity would be so much better, it doesn't seem to make sense to skimp (lest I be kicking myself during a duststorm out there). The updated design uses full-on triangle truss: http://people.tribe.net/corbindallas/photos/22901817-d209-434b-ad95-6b229726d13f When the walls are assembled, and put up, the edges are not flush, and I'm attempting to remedy the problem with this: http://people.tribe.net/corbindallas/photos/e91b94be-cf38-4f79-bab4-0681dbab5994 Here is a closer closeup of how the walls are assembled. Like you said, the sides should be assembled as separate units, and then put up and formed into the pyramidal shape. This is how I tried to eliminate the problem of the top square rotating with respect to the bottom square, and converting the stress of the design from twisting to leaning, if that makes any sense. Anyway, the struts are miter-cut at the ends, layed flush to create the trapezoid wall, sandwiched between the connectors, and bolted together, like this: http://people.tribe.net/corbindallas/photos/92aab469-4620-45c6-b8ed-f7983572cc1b Hope that clarifies what I'm doing, and exposes any potential flaws in design. Building will start pretty soon, and I'm excited to get this project under way. Then, I'll have to name it... the Burning Bunker? ... And Adam, the program I use for sketching this stuff is "sketchup", which is a free program put out by Google. I won't put up the url here, for fear it won't be posted, but I will say that I use the "free" version, NOT pro, and I don't think I've ever experienced any limitation in any design I've attempted thus far. It's damned addictive, though, as I find myself continuously opening my sketchup files to tweak a design a little here and there, rather than having to draw with papers, rulers, protractors, etc. All those tools are available in the program, and you can build stuff to exacting measurements. That's all I'm going to say on that, since I don't wan't to be accused of spamming. I think you would have a lot of fun with it though, since I don't think there's a lot of plans out there to use conventional means for designing and building a pyramid home. Thanks again for all the input! ~Ash

Ash of the Dark 2009-05-07T16:51:54Z Adam http://geodesicdomes.tribe.net/thread/9f23c211-34de-4ca4-822c-4c4d5f409e78#8b60f664-f9cd-4588-bd6c-4b6d38a8af83 2009-05-04T23:48:19Z 2009-05-04T23:48:19Z

Ash: I used to do Burningman back in the old days, but don't go anymore. I'm considering the idea of building a pyramid as a permanent structure, but haven't built anything yet. I'm impressed with your sketch. How did you draw it? You might want to think a bit more about your corner joints. From what I understand of your design, I think you might have missed something. The pieces of lumber on the corners are going to hit at a funny angle, and using the paneling to attach them might be a struggle. I'd recommend making the sides as complete, separate units. It uses more wood, but since everything will be in the same plane, the connectors can remain simple, and it will be easy to build. Once the sides are built, you can simply lean the 4 sides against one another. The structure _should_ stand on it's own since all of the force is inwards. After that, simply lashing the sides together should (hopefully) make it rock solid. Out of curiosity, what was your motivation to use the t-connectors and rope rather than building everything from wooden triangles? T-joints are alright, but triangles are _super_ strong. Excuse my extremely simplistic sketch for what I'm thinking of: http://geodesicdomes.tribe.net/photos/51f282fd-578f-4844-a15a-f346468598a9 I love the idea that one can start with a 2-level pyramid, and keep adding a new level each year. At some point, the inwards force on the center of each side would become too much, though cross supports could be added to offset that. I'm guessing it would be pretty easy to get up to 5, 6 or more levels with this simple, and easy to build design.

Adam 2009-05-04T23:48:19Z Ash of the Dark http://geodesicdomes.tribe.net/thread/9f23c211-34de-4ca4-822c-4c4d5f409e78#0ed4900c-c61b-4595-8ee7-0d26524b6dc6 2009-05-03T18:07:03Z 2009-05-03T18:07:03Z

Hi Bruce, I’m glad you brought that up. This is exactly what would happen, and it wasn’t until I created a model that I saw it. Here’s a new sketchup image of how I remedy the “buckling” problem: http://people.tribe.net/corbindallas/photos/4ecd3d52-64c0-47ef-a82f-265c9de45615 All trapezoid walls frames are assembled independently of each other, using the corner connector pieces. A center “brace” strut is also added to each wall (like a T-connection). They are then erected (at what I found to be 54.7 degrees of rise) so their edges touch. An extra length of 2x2 is inserted along the corner points of each wall junction, and bolted to the wall frames (through pre-drilled holes). The corner connectors have holes drilled in them, so I can tie rope at diagonals to form triangular supports, and give extra resistence against wind billowing the walls inward. I plan on just duct-taping along all the edges of the billboard vinyl, so the wind can't get a hold anywhere to rip it up. I’m sure if I just let the structure be what it wants to be - a full pyramid - the buckling problem would be elegantly eliminated, like you said. I love pyramids for their simplicity and strength, but I’ve had this truncated design haunting me for about a year now, so as I’m sure you understand, I must create it. Thank you for the input! :)

Ash of the Dark 2009-05-03T18:07:03Z Bruce http://geodesicdomes.tribe.net/thread/9f23c211-34de-4ca4-822c-4c4d5f409e78#5a7e433f-18c3-44e0-85f3-5b7762a3ecbf 2009-05-03T02:49:12Z 2009-05-03T02:49:12Z

Hi! I took a look at your sketchup picture of the truncated pyramid. Has many good features, but I am concerned about stability? I am imagining that the square top might be able to rotate with respect to the bottom square. This would apply force to what you are using as a cover-- you mentioned buildboard vinyl, so it would be the attachment points of the vinyl, as well as the places where the struts are fastened together, that would experience this force. OTOH, if you extended the vertical sides to make a pointy top, this would stop the rotation mentioned above. Or putting struts or tieing lines to introduce more triangles to the structure. I am just doing this all in my head, so I am not 100% sure...

Bruce 2009-05-03T02:49:12Z Ash of the Dark http://geodesicdomes.tribe.net/thread/9f23c211-34de-4ca4-822c-4c4d5f409e78#a625545e-b475-41b1-8d23-37a8b14adc53 2009-04-07T03:37:44Z 2009-04-07T03:37:44Z

Adam... just noticed you posted this after the burn in 2007. Did you end up building anything for '08? Got any new plans for '09?

Ash of the Dark 2009-04-07T03:37:44Z Ash of the Dark http://geodesicdomes.tribe.net/thread/9f23c211-34de-4ca4-822c-4c4d5f409e78#a6164d44-3ad5-4fb8-81d3-9a5a63edd802 2009-03-08T23:52:01Z 2009-03-08T23:52:01Z

Love the ideas on how to throw up a pyramid... and thank you for suggesting Sketchup! It has received the brunt of my building obsessions since... well... January 17th. Here is a sketchup picture of what I'm currently working on: http://people.tribe.net/corbindallas/photos/4136d3e1-0ba8-4f18-b840-635a202d9530

Ash of the Dark 2009-03-08T23:52:01Z Bruce http://geodesicdomes.tribe.net/thread/9f23c211-34de-4ca4-822c-4c4d5f409e78#a7dce9a4-d3e8-46cc-a40d-84021942051b 2009-01-23T06:51:36Z 2009-01-23T06:51:36Z

>I've thrown up several quick n sloppy pyramids at gatherings. Thanks Briggi! I'm off to Kiwiburn in a couple of weeks with the need to build a pyramid, and this will do the trick nicely!!!

Bruce 2009-01-23T06:51:36Z Shadoan http://geodesicdomes.tribe.net/thread/9f23c211-34de-4ca4-822c-4c4d5f409e78#a7fcd5e8-1089-4229-8cdb-de2d4a3eff56 2009-01-17T14:35:37Z 2009-01-17T14:35:37Z

Sounds like a nice hybrid form! I could help anyone that wants, with 3D sketchup modeling. I also give online lesson (2D/4D/6D), free for the first few cause I actually have given only a few lessons. I don't have a lot of time free, so it is kinda random.

Shadoan 2009-01-17T14:35:37Z Briggi http://geodesicdomes.tribe.net/thread/9f23c211-34de-4ca4-822c-4c4d5f409e78#9a82f5a6-ce2b-4c89-9da7-c0ab6de3b048 2009-01-16T10:22:30Z 2009-01-16T10:22:30Z

I've thrown up several quick n sloppy pyramids at gatherings. All you need is poles, tarpage and rope. For a smaller pyramid, lay down 4 three meter poles even with each other on the floor. Bind one end of the four up with a teepee knot, leaving about 4 meters of rope loose off the knot. Erect the poles together, then walk them out into a four sided tripod. Use shorter pieces for horizontal framing, binding them with cord to the corners. Cover all with an appropriate size of tarpaulin. The loose end of the apex knot is staked down tightly into a corner as anchor. Addiational structure can be tied on as needed. Addiational anchoring can be added by way of cors and ropes crossing over top of the tarpage and staked into earth. Scale up this idea as required. If using several tarps, cover lower areas first then above, so as to get overlap from above against rain.

Briggi 2009-01-16T10:22:30Z Ash of the Dark http://geodesicdomes.tribe.net/thread/9f23c211-34de-4ca4-822c-4c4d5f409e78#7a774ea2-4bff-4879-8bb6-2f8844296155 2009-01-14T17:51:31Z 2009-01-14T17:51:31Z

Here's my new building project (just about ready to take it off the drawing board, just saving money for materials): A truncated pyramid. Basically, the floor is a square, the four walls are trapezoids (with bottom angles at 60 degrees - took me awhile to figure that out!) and the ceiling is a square, with edge lengths equalling one half the edge lengths of the floor. I theorize this structure would perform splendidly against high winds (like what we get at Burning Man), and still have a ceiling level I can reach, for ease of set-up, and any required maintenance. Using 8' struts, the structure would be about 6' high, and encompass 256 square feet. I have had kind of a long-term goal to create a strong, break-downable structure that is fully panelized as well. Stretching a skin over a structure can be a pain in the butt, and I just don't like it when stuff doesn't fit tightly together. So, since trapezoids are just equilateral triangles assembled in the right pattern, I figure each wall would consist of three equilateral triangles, built with 8' 1x2's, and securing a panel to each of these (perhaps cardboard painted with oil or latex-based paints for weatherproofing). The triangular panels would be fastened to eachother much like the panels of the carboard domes which are alluded to in many places throughout Tribe. The edges of the walls would be joined to eachother and to the roof by drilling small holes in the edges of the frames and using zip-ties. Finally, all edges of the structure would be taped with duct or some kind of filament tape. Since it's panelized, windows can be pre-cut into the panels, and covered with a flap, to allow for air flow when necessary. Then, I got really crazy and thought, hey! It gets really friggin cold out on the Playa at night! So what if I wanted to insulate my panels? Apparently, a cheap way to do that is to use finely ground paper; i.e. milling newspaper to a fine mulch, so it looks like grey bunches of cotton. Mother Earth News has a cool article for homeowners on how to do this. But if it's all prefab for assembly on the Playa, why not? The insulation could be held in place by setting an internal panel. I think that's about enough on the subject for now... gotta get in my internet line to buy tickets for this year! Any thoughts?

Ash of the Dark 2009-01-14T17:51:31Z Shadoan http://geodesicdomes.tribe.net/thread/9f23c211-34de-4ca4-822c-4c4d5f409e78#32b599a0-7554-484f-b77b-b70a73cbf361 2008-03-09T00:16:36Z 2008-03-09T00:16:36Z

wait wait:!: http://yongyudh.bravehost.com/studentworks/student-4.htm Go down the page, or ctrl-f search tigerman!

Shadoan 2008-03-09T00:16:36Z Shadoan http://geodesicdomes.tribe.net/thread/9f23c211-34de-4ca4-822c-4c4d5f409e78#4541cc9d-01b1-42da-b0f9-a919990a0700 2008-03-09T00:11:55Z 2008-03-09T00:11:55Z

guys, I 'm sorry, I just tried to find something, and I must be crazy for saying tigerman... my bad

Shadoan 2008-03-09T00:11:55Z Pokes http://geodesicdomes.tribe.net/thread/9f23c211-34de-4ca4-822c-4c4d5f409e78#6e3ecb2c-a743-4e32-9738-692bb510b410 2008-03-06T02:17:24Z 2008-03-06T02:17:24Z

(sigh) NM, thank you Google/Wiki

Pokes 2008-03-06T02:17:24Z Pokes http://geodesicdomes.tribe.net/thread/9f23c211-34de-4ca4-822c-4c4d5f409e78#4814ea01-4c48-43b6-9a93-d4076cea1131 2008-03-06T02:13:59Z 2008-03-06T02:13:59Z

And where would we find this person?

Pokes 2008-03-06T02:13:59Z Shadoan http://geodesicdomes.tribe.net/thread/9f23c211-34de-4ca4-822c-4c4d5f409e78#c254698c-fbdf-42f1-b06f-565a6b4bae52 2008-03-05T18:22:04Z 2008-03-05T18:22:04Z

See Stanley Tigerman of Tigerman Lily. for pyramid trusssss

Shadoan 2008-03-05T18:22:04Z Cherubic http://geodesicdomes.tribe.net/thread/9f23c211-34de-4ca4-822c-4c4d5f409e78#8c91a2b5-ea45-4392-9b0f-df1258d9781c 2008-03-03T06:38:31Z 2008-03-03T06:38:31Z

i know its expensive but stage trussing is amazing for pyramids. you can climb on it swing on it fuck on it whatever its meant to hold very heavy speakers and lighting. although really it does not fit any of the pereamiters that you set forth so honestly i just blurted out what came to my mind. although the smaller trussing might be more reasonable for what you saying although probably not as sturdy.

Cherubic 2008-03-03T06:38:31Z Pokes http://geodesicdomes.tribe.net/thread/9f23c211-34de-4ca4-822c-4c4d5f409e78#3462123f-ae63-4391-99c4-ed976674855b 2008-02-26T19:51:57Z 2008-02-26T19:51:57Z

This is actually something I'm looking into myself. I'm actually looking into bribing some architecture students here at the university to take it on as a project. Goals would be: *Pyramid shaped structure large enough for 4+ adults to sleep in (the bigger the better) *Constructed of renewable materials. Thinking bamboo, canvas tarping, natural rope, as little metal as possible *Breaks down to fit in and/or on average sized passenger car *Accommodate a decent size fire SAFELY *Functionality, durability and form highest priorities in that order *Expense, within reason, not a priority Unrealistic goal: *Large enough, open enough for gatherings/performances Totally unrealistic bonus goal: *Large enough, open enough and STRONG enough for aerial practice and/or performance -Pokes (who's never short on ideas, good, bad and ugly)

Pokes 2008-02-26T19:51:57Z Adam http://geodesicdomes.tribe.net/thread/9f23c211-34de-4ca4-822c-4c4d5f409e78#2e847430-2a30-4421-831e-8a05b983c6c8 2007-09-15T05:59:48Z 2007-09-15T05:59:48Z

I could not find any pyramid tribes, but thought that you guys might be able to provide some help or point me in the right direction. I saw some good pyramids this year at Burningman. Primarily they are constructed with each side being made up of many smaller pyramids. I like this design a lot, because if you want to increase the size of your structure it seems all you have to do is add another level to the bottom. While, if you want create a larger dome, you have to rebuild it from scratch. Does anyone have any tips, tricks, or references for building pyramids?

Adam 2007-09-15T05:59:48Z